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How to Beat Powerball: And drastically reduce the odds (theory)...Prev TopicNext Topic
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Quote: Originally posted by pumpi76 on May 26, 2007
Also you then record the ships draws lenght and list them and then ascertain that the less skips lenght is the minimum a draw will play...Example is E/O type OOEOE plays in draw 1, then on draw 8, then on draw 20, the on draw 34, then on draw 50 you can assume that the OOEOE will play or come up at least every 8 draws...How? you record the differences between draws in this case 1,8,20,34,50 which should be 7-12-14-15 and you then assume that the least difference of skips lenght means that the particular E/O type OOEOE should come up every 7 draws to be on the safe side...The average doesn't really help in this case so you can basically eliminate the OOEOE until 7 draws have passed...You also have to take into account the percentage that the least lenght skip appears on your list....I say if is less than 25% you should take it as the average time the skip will repeat...Example, the skip lenght difference we mentioned above were: 7-12-14-15 now imagine that you had a skip difference lenght of 19-12-14-15...NOw 1 skip lenght difference even though is discouraging 1 skip lenght difference appears 1 in 4 or 25% of the time and it doesn't exceed it, so you should take it....You will not see this in statistics....If is above 33.3% you should not take it even though you can try though you should have it in mind that there is a limit not to jeapardize your objective...And your objective is to correctly forecast or should i say "pin-point" where every E/O type will show up or when each E/O type will not show up.....I said 25% but scientists can research it further and determine UNTIL which percentage is safe....I invented this system to better calculate averages and this way predict better random phenomena, though is very easy, though i don't know if this has been invented or is known already...With this system i devised you can calculate or better pin-point random walk footprints.....
"More important than winning the states' lotteries is the movie "Red Planet"..."
I said: "Also you then record the ships draws lenght and list them and then ascertain that the less skips lenght is the minimum draw will play...."
What i meant to say: "Also you then record the SKIPS draws lenght and list them and then ascertain that the less skips lenght is the minimum draw that it will play...."
"More important than winning the states' lotteries is the movie "Red Planet"....."
mib
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I got a headache just trying to read the first posting, please indent !
(break things down into separate paragraphs)
From everything I have seen, any system involves LUCK playing into it. I feel there are a thousand 'systems' that may tip you into getting 3 of 5 WB's about once every 4 drawings, any more than that is pure luck.
Why do I think that ?
Because if there was a bonifide 'system', the JP would get hit every time.
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Any system that has "luck" as a major component is no better than QPs or randomly guessing.
The "bonifide system" you described may have yet to be created and shared before jackpots can be won every time and then the matrix or the rules will change. For many, it's a race against time to create it and win a jackpot before those rules or matrix change again.
Results tell more than any post. When a LP member actually win a jackpot, I will be convinced that maybe they have found something worth posting.
* you don't need to buy every combination, just the winning ones *
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No, what I mean is, you develop a 'system' that you use on a consistent basis, but it still is up to luck for it to increase your odds. If you have a system that has gotten you several 3x5's and 4x5's, then it will take luck to get those 1 or 2 other numbers. Or pure guesswork, which leads to the next thought: is guesswork luck in itself ?
Your 'system' can be as basic as Not picking all the same numbers that hit in the last game, Not picking 1-2-3-4-5, Not picking ALL the longest shots out there, or any other way you want it. By all rights, a QP is a 'system', but maybe not by the definition we are intending.
You can pick 1-3-5-7-9, but if 2-4-6-8-10 hit, you are close, but you still lose, it would be the same as playing 1-3-5-7-9, and having 51-52-53-54-55 hitting. A loss is a loss.
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Quote: Originally posted by pumpi76 on May 26, 2007
Also you then record the ships draws lenght and list them and then ascertain that the less skips lenght is the minimum a draw will play...Example is E/O type OOEOE plays in draw 1, then on draw 8, then on draw 20, the on draw 34, then on draw 50 you can assume that the OOEOE will play or come up at least every 8 draws...How? you record the differences between draws in this case 1,8,20,34,50 which should be 7-12-14-15 and you then assume that the least difference of skips lenght means that the particular E/O type OOEOE should come up every 7 draws to be on the safe side...The average doesn't really help in this case so you can basically eliminate the OOEOE until 7 draws have passed...You also have to take into account the percentage that the least lenght skip appears on your list....I say if is less than 25% you should take it as the average time the skip will repeat...Example, the skip lenght difference we mentioned above were: 7-12-14-15 now imagine that you had a skip difference lenght of 19-12-14-15...NOw 1 skip lenght difference even though is discouraging 1 skip lenght difference appears 1 in 4 or 25% of the time and it doesn't exceed it, so you should take it....You will not see this in statistics....If is above 33.3% you should not take it even though you can try though you should have it in mind that there is a limit not to jeapardize your objective...And your objective is to correctly forecast or should i say "pin-point" where every E/O type will show up or when each E/O type will not show up.....I said 25% but scientists can research it further and determine UNTIL which percentage is safe....I invented this system to better calculate averages and this way predict better random phenomena, though is very easy, though i don't know if this has been invented or is known already...With this system i devised you can calculate or better pin-point random walk footprints.....
"More important than winning the states' lotteries is the movie "Red Planet"..."
I forgot to mention that when following a random phenomena you CONSISTENTLY record the skips draw lenght and list them and then ascertain the less skips lenght as the minimun draw that it will play....You have to CONSISTENTLY be at it (at the method, or more specifically calculating the percentages that the LEAST skip lenght a number will appear) so you can calculate when is the least skip lenght that a number will appear....
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Well here is 1 pattern....Is about the ending digits...I call them the high digit/low digit ratio & the high ending digit/low ending digit types...They are similar to TnTea's E/O types but without the numbers in between, they are basically plainly E/O Types but different...
First you look at what ending digits are...For example the number 15, the ending digit is 5, the number 28, the ending digit is 8 (basically the digit at the right side)...The number 19 has ending digit of 9, the number 11 has ending digit of 1...NOTE: The numbers that have ending digit of 0, example 20, 30, 40 i call them the 10 ending digit and not the 0 ending digit...So what is a high ending digit and what is a low ending digit? Low ending digits are numbers that end from 1 to 5...Example: 1,11,21,31,41,51; 2,12,22,32,42,52; 3,13,23,33,43,53; 4,14,24,34,44,54 & 5,15,25,35,45,55 are all LOW ENDING DIGITS...
High ending digits are (assuming is a pick5/55 or lotto5/55): 6,16,26,36,46; 7,17,27,37,47; 8,18,28,38,48; 9,19,29,39,49; 10,20,30,40,50 are all HIGH ENDING DIGIT: (Again numbers have ending digit in "0" are considered "10" and not "0"....So basically low ending digits are numbers that have ending digits from 1 to 5 and high ending digits are numbers that have ending digits of 6 to 10...So if you record Powerball Powerball High Ending digits & Low Ending Digits TYPES and the High Ending Digits over the Low Ending Digits ratios this is what you will have:
NOTE: Here "H" stands for high ending digits...In this case the "O" represents the low ending digits...I did this so it will look better because had i use the "L" to stand for Low ending digits it will have been confusing...So if you record the Powerball Draws from the first draw of 2006 'till April, 21st, 2007 (the numbers represents respective draws) and you record the High ending digits and Low ending digits TYPES, this is what you will get: *(HED stands for high ending digit & LED stands for Low Ending Digit..) (from the first Powerball draw of 2006 'til April 21st, 2007 there is a total of 136 draws).....
HED/LED
TYPES:
1. HOOHO 36. OOOOH 71. OOHOO 106. OOHHH
2. OHOOO 37. OOOHO 72. OHHOH 107. HOOOO
3. OHOHH 38. HHHHO 73. OHHOH 108. OOOOH
4. HOHHH 39. OHOHO 74. HHHHO 109. HOHHO
5. OHHOO 40. OHOOO 75. HHHHO 110. OOHOH
6. OHHOO 41. OOOHO 76. OOHOH 111. HHHOO
7. HHOHO 42. HOHOH 77. OHOOH 112. HHHHO
8. OOHHH 43. HHOOH 78. HOHOH 113. OOOOH
9. OOHOO 44. OHHHH 79. OHHHH 114. OOHOH
10. OOOHH 45. OHHHH 80. OOHOO 115. OOHHO
11. OOOHO 46. HOHHO 81. OHOOH 116. OOHOO
12. HHHOO 47. OOOHH 82. OOHHH 117. OHHOO
13. OOOHH 48. HHOHH 83. OOOOH 118. OOOHO
14. OHOOH 49. OHOOO 84. HHOOO 119. OHOHH
15. HOHOO 50. HOHHH 85. HHOOH 120. HHOOO
16. OHHHO 51. OHHOO 86. OOHHO 121. OHOOO
17. HOOHO 52. OOOHO 87. HHOHO 122. OOHOH
18. OOHOH 53. HHOOO 88. OOOHO 123. OHHHH
19. OOHOO 54. OHOHH 89. HOOHO 124. OHOOO
20. HOHOO 55. HHHOO 90. OHHHO 125. OHHHO
21. HOHHO 56. HOHHH 91. OHHOO 126. HHOHO
22. OOOHO 57. OOHOH 92. OHHHO 127. HOHOO
23. HOOHO 58. OHHOO 93. OOHHO 128. HHHHO
24. HOHHO 59. OHHOO 94. OHHHO 129. HHOHH
25. OOOHO 60. OHHHO 95. OHHOH 130. OOHHH
26. OHOHO 61. HOHHO 96. HOOOH 131. HHHHO
27. OHOHH 62. OOHHH 97. HOOHH 132. OHOOO
28. OOOOO 63. HHOOO 98. HOHOO 133. HOHOO
29. HHOOO 64. OOHHO 99. HOOOO 134. OOHHH
30. OHOHH 65. OOOHH 100. OHHHO 135. HHOOO
31. OHOOO 66. OOHHO 101. OHOHO 136. OHHOO
32. OOHHH 67. HHOHO 102. HHOOO
33. OOHHO 68. OHHOH 103. OHHHO
34. HHOHO 69. OHOOO 104. HOHOH
35. OHHHO 70. OHOHH 105. HOOOO
Now if you record this pattern you will see that the HED/LED types (or H/O types) don't repeat that often if you start counting or looking at the pattern from the first Powerball draw of 2006 (in this case from draw 1) counting FORWARD 'till you reach the last draw and beyond (in this case draw 36 & beyond)...Please see the next post about this pattern...
NOTE: I am not finished with this pattern...I am going to post another post to better explain what i am saying...
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I said: "Now if you record this pattern you will see that the HED/LED types (or H/O types) don't repeat that often if you start counting or looking at the pattern from the first Powerball draw of 2006 (in this case from draw 1) counting FORWARD 'till you reach the last draw and beyond (in this case draw 36 & beyond)...Please see the next post about this pattern..."
If you list the possible HED/LED (this means HED over LED) types and you write them you will find that there are about 30...I might be missing 1 or two more...
HHOOO= 1 HHHOO= 10 HOOOO= 20
OHHOO= 2 OHHHO= 11 OHOOO= 21
OHOHO= 3 HOHHO= 12 OOHOO= 22
HOOOH= 4 HHOOH= 13 OOOHO= 23
OOHOH= 5 OOHHH= 14 OOOOH= 24
HOHOO= 6 OHOHH= 15 HHHHO= 25
OHOOH= 7 OHHOH= 16 HHHOH= 26
HOOHO= 8 HOHOH= 17 HHOHH= 27
OOOHH= 9 HHOHO= 18 HOHHH= 28
OOHHO= 19 HOOHH= 30 OHHHH= 29
NOTE: Type "OOHHO" and type "HOOHH" i made them number 19 & number 30 because i had forgot them after i made the list...I call the designated numbers of each respective HED/LED type: "Designated numbers"....So if you record each Powerball draw from the first draw of 2006 'till April 21st, 2007 and you designate each HED/LED type its respective numbers (number that is from 1-30) you will get the following:
Designated numbers of each HED/LED type:
1. 8 26. 3 51. 2 76. 5 101. 3 126. 18
2. 21 27. 15 52. 23 77. 7 102. 1 127. 6
3. 15 28. 0 53. 1 78. 17 103. 11 128. 25
4. 28 29. 1 54. 15 79. 29 104. 17 129. 27
5. 2 30. 15 55. 10 80. 22 105. 20 130. 14
6. 2 31. 21 56. 28 81. 7 106. 14 131. 25
7. 18 32. 14 57. 5 82. 14 107. 20 132. 21
8. 14 33. 19 58. 2 83. 24 108. 24 133. 6
9. 22 34. 18 59. 2 84. 1 109. 12 134. 14
10. 9 35. 11 60. 11 85. 13 110. 5 135. 1
11. 23 36. 24 61. 12 86. 19 111. 10 136. 2
12. 10 37. 23 62. 14 87. 18 112. 25
13. 9 38. 25 63. 1 88. 23 113. 24
14. 7 39. 3 64. 19 89. 8 114. 5
15. 6 40. 21 65. 9 90. 11 115. 19
16. 11 41. 23 66. 19 91. 2 116. 22
17. 8 42. 17 67. 18 92. 11 117. 2
18. 5 43. 13 68. 16 93. 19 118. 23
19. 22 44. 29 69. 21 94. 11 119. 15
20. 6 45. 29 70. 15 95. 16 120. 1
21. 12 46. 12 71. 22 96. 4 121. 21
22. 23 47. 9 72. 16 97. 30 122. 5
23. 8 48. 27 73. 16 98. 6 123. 29
24. 12 49. 21 74. 25 99. 20 124. 21
25. 23 50. 28 75. 25 100. 11 125. 11
If you notice they don't repeat that often if you go FORWARD...You might be able to eliminate 15 HED/LED types, leaving you with 15...
Now i previously said: "And it would have given you the theoretical odds of 1 in 56,473.5 with 1 ticket and not 1 in 150 million"..."Imagine if we had divided 112,947 by 31 we would have had 3,643.4 x 10 = 36,430 combinations and that divided by 2 (or 50% of the bonus ball in this case even or odd) our theoretical odds would had been 1 in 18,215 with 1 ticket and not 1 in 150 million...Again this is theoretically...Not everything goes as planned though..."
If you divide 56,473.5 by 30 that would have given you 1882.4, multiplied by 15 HED/LED types (i said 15 to be on the safe side but i think is more than that, i think you would have eliminated like 20 HED/LED types leaving you with 10) that you would have been left with & it would have been 28,236.7 and with 1 ticket your odds would have been 1 in 28,236.7 and not 1 in 150 million...
Or if you had divided the 18,215 by 30 that would have given you 607.2 multiplied by 15 HED/LED types (i said 15 to be on the safe side but i thinks more than that, i think you would have eliminated like 20 HED/LED types leaving you with 10) that you would have been left with & it would have been 9,107.5 and with 1 ticket your odds would have been 1 in 9,107.5 and not 1 in 150 million...
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This is the second pattern...Is the HED/LED ratio (HED over the LED ratio)...As you may know HED stands for "high Ending Digit" while LED stands for "Low Ending Digit"...
If you record the HED/LED ratio from the first Powerball draw of 2006 'til April 21st, 2007 this is what you will get:
1. 2/3 36. 1/4 71. 1/4 106. 3/2
2. 1/4 37. 1/4 72. 3/2 107. 1/4
3. 3/2 38. 4/1 73. 3/2 108. 1/4
4. 4/1 39. 2/3 74. 4/1 109. 3/2
5. 2/3 40. 1/4 75. 4/1 110. 2/3
6. 2/3 41. 1/4 76. 2/3 111. 3/2
7. 3/2 42. 3/2 77. 2/3 112. 4/1
8. 3/2 43. 3/2 78. 3/2 113. 1/4
9. 1/4 44. 4/1 79. 4/1 114. 2/3
10. 2/3 45. 4/1 80. 1/4 115. 2/3
11. 1/4 46. 3/2 81. 2/3 116. 1/4
12. 3/2 47. 2/3 82. 3/2 117. 2/3
13. 2/3 48. 4/1 83. 1/4 118. 1/4
14. 2/3 49. 1/4 84. 2/3 119. 3/2
15. 2/3 50. 4/1 85. 3/2 120. 2/3
16. 3/2 51. 2/3 86. 2/3 121. 1/4
17. 2/3 52. 1/4 87. 3/2 122. 2/3
18. 2/3 53. 2/3 88. 1/4 123. 4/1
19. 1/4 54. 3/2 89. 2/3 124. 1/4
20. 2/3 55. 3/2 90. 3/2 125. 3/2
21. 3/2 56. 4/1 91. 2/3 126. 3/2
22. 1/4 57. 2/3 92. 3/2 127. 2/3
23. 2/3 58. 2/3 93. 2/3 128. 4/1
24. 3/2 59. 2/3 94. 3/2 129. 4/1
25. 1/4 60. 3/2 95. 3/2 130. 3/2
26. 2/3 61. 3/2 96. 2/3 131. 4/1
27. 3/2 62. 3/2 97. 3/2 132. 1/4
28. 0/5 63. 2/3 98. 2/3 133. 2/3
29. 2/3 64. 2/3 99. 1/4 134. 3/2
30. 3/2 65. 2/3 100. 3/2 135. 2/3
31. 1/4 66. 2/3 101. 2/3 136. 2/3
32. 3/2 67. 3/2 102. 2/3
33. 2/3 68. 3/2 103. 3/2
34. 3/2 69. 1/4 104. 3/2
35. 3/2 70. 3/2 105. 1/4
Explanation: The first number is the HED while the botton or last number in the fraction/ratio is the LED...Example: 1/4 means that there is 1 HED over 4 LED...2/3 means that there is 2 HED over 3 LED...Or you can think about it as 2 HED with 3 LED...In those 136 draws, 3/2 & 2/3 make up 93 draws (or 68.4% of the time), while 4/1 appear in 15 draws (or 11% of the time) and 1/4 appears in 28 draws (or 20.6% of the time)...0/5 appears only 1 time so we can discard that ratio as well as 5/0...One pattern i could see is that everytime 1/4 played, it will not repeat again on the following draw...This 1/4 second repetition only happened 3 times in 136 draws...The same scenario with 4/1...Everytime 4/1 played, it will not repeat the following draw...4/1 only repeated the following draw after it played, 3 times...So everytime 1/4 plays we can be certain that 1/4 will not play again on the following draw, the same case with 4/1....
Also you could if you wanted to: You could only use the 3/2 & 2/3 ratios because they appeared so far 93 times out of 136, and i think that's a good pattern...So you could basically make your combinations have 3HED/2LED & 2HED/3LED ONLY and not 4/1, 1/4, 5/0, & 0/5....This is the second pattern...I shall post the 3rd, 4th & 5th pattern later...
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What you are explaining is the 'split' - the amount of numbers that hit that are between 1-27, and 28-55. I have been tracking that religiously for 2 years, and have posted the percentages several times, they are close to yours.
That said, those percentages change, and they have changed drastically in the last 5 months as opposed to the first 5 months of 2006, so the question is, will they 'even out', will they worsen, will they go drastically the other way ? How do you play it ??
You need to go further than HED/LED, that is just one very small step, but it IS a step, and a good one.
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Quote: Originally posted by guesser on May 29, 2007
No, what I mean is, you develop a 'system' that you use on a consistent basis, but it still is up to luck for it to increase your odds. If you have a system that has gotten you several 3x5's and 4x5's, then it will take luck to get those 1 or 2 other numbers. Or pure guesswork, which leads to the next thought: is guesswork luck in itself ?
Your 'system' can be as basic as Not picking all the same numbers that hit in the last game, Not picking 1-2-3-4-5, Not picking ALL the longest shots out there, or any other way you want it. By all rights, a QP is a 'system', but maybe not by the definition we are intending.
You can pick 1-3-5-7-9, but if 2-4-6-8-10 hit, you are close, but you still lose, it would be the same as playing 1-3-5-7-9, and having 51-52-53-54-55 hitting. A loss is a loss.
Actually 1-3-5-7-9 and 2-4-6-8-10 aren't close if you think in terms of odd and even numbers. I guess it's a matter of how you define your numbers. I prefer to define my numbers with letters, that way I don't know their value until the end.
* you don't need to buy every combination, just the winning ones *
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Quote: Originally posted by guesser on May 31, 2007
What you are explaining is the 'split' - the amount of numbers that hit that are between 1-27, and 28-55. I have been tracking that religiously for 2 years, and have posted the percentages several times, they are close to yours.
That said, those percentages change, and they have changed drastically in the last 5 months as opposed to the first 5 months of 2006, so the question is, will they 'even out', will they worsen, will they go drastically the other way ? How do you play it ??
You need to go further than HED/LED, that is just one very small step, but it IS a step, and a good one.
I am not explaining the split (numbers from 1-27 & 28-55), i know what those are...YOu can add that pattern (the split) to it if you like and i think it will be a great idea...I did not add that pattern (the split 1-27 & 28-55) because i believe in TnTea's 2-2-1 types, that's why i didn't post it...What i am explaining is the ending digit a particular number ends with...Here is an explanation i wrote (you may not have read it)....
" First you look at what ending digits are...For example the number 15, the ending digit is 5, the number 28, the ending digit is 8 (basically the digit at the right side)...The number 19 has ending digit of 9, the number 11 has ending digit of 1...NOTE: The numbers that have ending digit of 0, example 20, 30, 40 i call them the 10 ending digit and not the 0 ending digit...So what is a high ending digit and what is a low ending digit? Low ending digits are numbers that end from 1 to 5...Example: 1,11,21,31,41,51; 2,12,22,32,42,52; 3,13,23,33,43,53; 4,14,24,34,44,54 & 5,15,25,35,45,55 are all LOW ENDING DIGITS or LED..."
"High ending digits are (assuming is a pick5/55 or lotto5/55): 6,16,26,36,46; 7,17,27,37,47; 8,18,28,38,48; 9,19,29,39,49; 10,20,30,40,50 are all HIGH ENDING DIGIT or HED: (Again numbers have ending digit in "0" are considered "10" and not "0"....So basically low ending digits are numbers that have ending digits from 1 to 5 and high ending digits are numbers that have ending digits from 6 to 10..."
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Quote: Originally posted by pumpi76 on May 31, 2007
This is the second pattern...Is the HED/LED ratio (HED over the LED ratio)...As you may know HED stands for "high Ending Digit" while LED stands for "Low Ending Digit"...
If you record the HED/LED ratio from the first Powerball draw of 2006 'til April 21st, 2007 this is what you will get:
1. 2/3 36. 1/4 71. 1/4 106. 3/2
2. 1/4 37. 1/4 72. 3/2 107. 1/4
3. 3/2 38. 4/1 73. 3/2 108. 1/4
4. 4/1 39. 2/3 74. 4/1 109. 3/2
5. 2/3 40. 1/4 75. 4/1 110. 2/3
6. 2/3 41. 1/4 76. 2/3 111. 3/2
7. 3/2 42. 3/2 77. 2/3 112. 4/1
8. 3/2 43. 3/2 78. 3/2 113. 1/4
9. 1/4 44. 4/1 79. 4/1 114. 2/3
10. 2/3 45. 4/1 80. 1/4 115. 2/3
11. 1/4 46. 3/2 81. 2/3 116. 1/4
12. 3/2 47. 2/3 82. 3/2 117. 2/3
13. 2/3 48. 4/1 83. 1/4 118. 1/4
14. 2/3 49. 1/4 84. 2/3 119. 3/2
15. 2/3 50. 4/1 85. 3/2 120. 2/3
16. 3/2 51. 2/3 86. 2/3 121. 1/4
17. 2/3 52. 1/4 87. 3/2 122. 2/3
18. 2/3 53. 2/3 88. 1/4 123. 4/1
19. 1/4 54. 3/2 89. 2/3 124. 1/4
20. 2/3 55. 3/2 90. 3/2 125. 3/2
21. 3/2 56. 4/1 91. 2/3 126. 3/2
22. 1/4 57. 2/3 92. 3/2 127. 2/3
23. 2/3 58. 2/3 93. 2/3 128. 4/1
24. 3/2 59. 2/3 94. 3/2 129. 4/1
25. 1/4 60. 3/2 95. 3/2 130. 3/2
26. 2/3 61. 3/2 96. 2/3 131. 4/1
27. 3/2 62. 3/2 97. 3/2 132. 1/4
28. 0/5 63. 2/3 98. 2/3 133. 2/3
29. 2/3 64. 2/3 99. 1/4 134. 3/2
30. 3/2 65. 2/3 100. 3/2 135. 2/3
31. 1/4 66. 2/3 101. 2/3 136. 2/3
32. 3/2 67. 3/2 102. 2/3
33. 2/3 68. 3/2 103. 3/2
34. 3/2 69. 1/4 104. 3/2
35. 3/2 70. 3/2 105. 1/4
Explanation: The first number is the HED while the botton or last number in the fraction/ratio is the LED...Example: 1/4 means that there is 1 HED over 4 LED...2/3 means that there is 2 HED over 3 LED...Or you can think about it as 2 HED with 3 LED...In those 136 draws, 3/2 & 2/3 make up 93 draws (or 68.4% of the time), while 4/1 appear in 15 draws (or 11% of the time) and 1/4 appears in 28 draws (or 20.6% of the time)...0/5 appears only 1 time so we can discard that ratio as well as 5/0...One pattern i could see is that everytime 1/4 played, it will not repeat again on the following draw...This 1/4 second repetition only happened 3 times in 136 draws...The same scenario with 4/1...Everytime 4/1 played, it will not repeat the following draw...4/1 only repeated the following draw after it played, 3 times...So everytime 1/4 plays we can be certain that 1/4 will not play again on the following draw, the same case with 4/1....
Also you could if you wanted to: You could only use the 3/2 & 2/3 ratios because they appeared so far 93 times out of 136, and i think that's a good pattern...So you could basically make your combinations have 3HED/2LED & 2HED/3LED ONLY and not 4/1, 1/4, 5/0, & 0/5....This is the second pattern...I shall post the 3rd, 4th & 5th pattern later...
I said: "If you divide 56,473.5 by 30 that would have given you 1882.4, multiplied by 15 HED/LED types (i said 15 to be on the safe side but i think is more than that, i think you would have eliminated like 20 HED/LED types leaving you with 10) that you would have been left with & it would have been 28,236.7 and with 1 ticket your odds would have been 1 in 28,236.7 and not 1 in 150 million..."
"Or if you had divided the 18,215 by 30 that would have given you 607.2 multiplied by 15 HED/LED types (i said 15 to be on the safe side but i thinks more than that, i think you would have eliminated like 20 HED/LED types leaving you with 10) that you would have been left with & it would have been 9,107.5 and with 1 ticket your odds would have been 1 in 9,107.5 and not 1 in 150 million..."
It is my belief that 3HED/2LED & 2HED/3LED (or 3/2 & 2/3) make up 70% of Powerball 150 million combinations...So theoretically 3HED/2LED & 2HED/3LED should be 70% evenly distributed over the 28,236.7 combinations or the 9,107.5 combinations...So 70% of 28,236.7 is: 19,766...So theoretically the odds would be 1 in 19,766 and not 1 in 150 millions...So 70% of 9,107.5 is: 6,376....So theoretically the odds would be 1 in 6,376 and not 1 in 150 millions...But basically the odds of 1 in 6,376 or 1 in 19,766 would be so EVERY OTHER DRAW and not every draw...All with 1 ticket...But the good news is that it will cover the bonus ball...All this is theoretically...
question: Can you play the 19,766 combinations or the 6,376 combinations and win Powerball? Theoretically, you may/might be able to do so...All this is Theoretically...
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"question: Can you play the 19,766 combinations or the 6,376 combinations and win Powerball? Theoretically, you may/might be able to do so...All this is Theoretically..."
That seems like a simple question with a simply solution. Just create your lists of 19,766 and 6,376 combinations before the drawing and check them after the drawing.
* you don't need to buy every combination, just the winning ones *
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Quote: Originally posted by RJOh on Jun 1, 2007
"question: Can you play the 19,766 combinations or the 6,376 combinations and win Powerball? Theoretically, you may/might be able to do so...All this is Theoretically..."
That seems like a simple question with a simply solution. Just create your lists of 19,766 and 6,376 combinations before the drawing and check them after the drawing.
RJOH I've told this person a few times to do this and i think it falls on deaf ears.
He surly must know how long it would take to fill out said tickets and i seriously doubt that anyone could do it on short notice. Even if people helped him it would be nearly impossible to fill out said tickets and check for mistakes.
Although it's a simple task to generate the numbers for a test run via computer.
To actually fill play slips he only has a 3/4 day window to do the job. Then there's the actual time it would take to get an agent to run the tickets for him another problem might be created finding someone whom will tie up a machine for hours on end. It might be possible to load 10 play slips per minute. Every ticket must be fill out correctly. If for any reason tickets start getting rejected he would them be forced to fill out the mistaken play slips while he is getting the other tickets ran.
Lots of people have high hopes of doing things of this nature but never carry it out.
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I assume he doesn't plan to spend $20,000 for real but just want to know the answer to his question. If he's not capable of making up those lists then he probably hasn't thought about his theory enough to put it to paper.
* you don't need to buy every combination, just the winning ones *