Disney Land United States Member #92265 June 3, 2010 6841 Posts Offline

Posted: August 13, 2014, 3:20 pm - IP Logged

Quote: Originally posted by lothob on August 10, 2014

Here's some interesting Sunday afternoon research for the Night draw only.

Currently d4 in p3 is an astounding 71 draws out. Extremely rare to say the least, so when it comes to the night draw I'm going to be devoting more resources to plays around d4 in p3. If anyone shares my interest in this fact, please share a coinciding fact and a betting strategy to go with it.

For example, I like digit 2 in p1 because it's the longest out digit (16 draws out).

I'm currently looking at the 2X4Y where X is all the digits and Y is probably even since the last 3 Night draws had a odd digit in p4 (3365, 9109, 8471).

So that would yield 2X40, 2X42, 2X44, 2X46, 2X48 but that's still 50 numbers - far too many for my Quickie Mart budget lol.

Sidebar

By the way I loved that Pick 3 Quickie Mart tip the other day about the heavy Quickie Mart buyer playing 216 heavy - not that I particularly cared for 216 but I did include it just in case! It made me laugh!

Back to business -

I'm currently considering eliminating the 2X44 since the XX44 back pair is above the average number of times its theorectially expected to occur in 1 year's worth of Night game data (average is 3 and it's hit 5x).

So I'm down to 40 numbers.

Still too many but at $20 it's a possibility...

Any thoughts?

Depending on what TLC decides to do?

There could be a three in a row L shape sum..

Are you still in hunt for 4 in third?

Because it can be on the way…

Wear cute pajamas to bed...because you never know who you will meet in your dreams.

Dallas,TX United States Member #152930 March 1, 2014 40 Posts Offline

Posted: August 13, 2014, 5:10 pm - IP Logged

OK. I'll try to explain my method(s) for Scratch Off tickets (knowing if you have a winner or just how many until a winner in the Packet for that game). I had a question, and replied with this, so hopefully this helps, or explains, the ways you can detect just from the info on the card. There are several ways, but I use them all - depending on how quickly or how difficult the mental addition is on that card. So, here's some explanation to go with my original post "How to Determine if a Scratch Off ticket is a Winner".

When I say Pack# or packet number = the number on back of Scratch Card (SC) that has a bar code underneath it (on bottom) and the pack # is the number between the game # (far left) and the ticket number (far right). There are 7 digits, usually starting with 1-3 zeros. Your looking for the FIVE digits that make up the pack #. So, I'm looking at game #1629, on back pack # is 0073182, always 7 digits. Now, what you want to do depends on HOW you arrive at a certain number. One way is adding the last four digits of the pack # to your ticket number, so my ticket has #014. If I add the last four digits TO the ticket #, then I get 3+1+8+2 = 14 (forget the real value, where 8's are 3 and 9's are 5. So, add 14+14 = 28. Now, you want to look at the FIVE digits in the pack # and get the value, added together to = 28. How? Well, start with the five digits = 73182 and remember this - you want to see IF you can find the way to arrive at 28. On a low ticket number, you probably don't have to mess with the x10 which can be applied to any digit. So, if I add just the 5 digits -straight- I get 18 7+3+2 (1 PLUS 1) since the first zero was a 1, a duplicate gets a +1. Trust me on this. So, 7+3 +2 + 3 (8's are valued at 3 and there has been a 3 already - this is where you adjust - do you add a +1 to an 8-"3"? We'll see. For now, 7+3+2+4+3 (2 was 2nd zero, so +1 applies here) = total is 18. IF you add +1 to all the 3's after the first 3, then you get 7+3+2+4+3. Last 3, was a 2 +1, so not a 'real' three. So, it stays at 3. Now total is = 19. Now, you look to see if any number can be a x10 to get you to 28. 7 (no), 3 (no) 2 (no) 3 or 4 (no) and 3 (no). No means that x10 would put your total OVER 28. So, for instance 7 + 3 + 20 (the lowest of the set) +3 +2 = 35. So, this ticket is a loser. And, it was.

So, let me give you a winning ticket on same game #1629. Ticket #016, same pack# but now total is 16 + 14 = 30. BUT, let's use the 'real value' of the last 4 numbers, instead - this is to show you HOW to arrive vs. what appears to be exact printed numbers.

So, last four digits are 3182. Start with 3 + 2 + 3 + 3 (this is what the 'real value' is when you convert these numbers when adding up all five. So, you are adding last 4 digits total to your ticket number, THEN, you want to add all FIVE digits in pack # to arrive at same number (last 4 digits + ticket number). So, ticket # is 16. 3+2+3+3 = 11. 11+16 = 27. We want to add all FIVE digits in pack to get to 27. 7+3 = 10. 10+2=12. 12+3= 15. and 15 + 3 = 18. Now, lets look at which number could be x10 to get to 27.

So, remember this: the "1" is actually 1 PLUS 1, so you need to remember it's actually a 1, then +1, so (and this is confusing) you can figure this in when looking for 27. Ok. Follow me here. 7+3 = 10. Now, original 5 digits were 73182. So, 7+3 = 10. Now, use the original 1 FIRST. Then you can do 1 X 10 = 10. There is almost always a x10 in getting to your number (the four digits added to ticket #). So, 7+3 + (1x10=10) now have 20. Now, since 1 is a duplicate (you must count the first ZERO in the packet as a 1, the second zero is a 2), remember to add the +1 to the 1. So, 1x10=10 PLUS 1 = 11! 7+3+11 = 21. Now, 7+3+11+3 +3 = 27 !! You will find this to be the hardest part to get down pat - remember the +1 is the "real value", just as 8=3 and 9=5. Trust me on the real values of these numbers, it's because this is figured into the algorithm to make 2 digits added together still produce a single digit, like 8+4 would be 12, but 3+4 = 7.

So, this card was a winner, paid $5. Now, if you want MORE info? Keep reading. The bar code underneath all the numbers - game, packet, and ticket number - you are only looking at the TICKET NUMBER and the lines below ONLY the ticket #. They cannot touch-reach the last number in pack # or the (60) remaining number, including parenthesis. What you are looking for is SIX thin lines and FOUR thick lines under the ticket number. It's ok if one of these lines is under the "-" at end of pack #, just not under the last NUMBER! So, this card fits - it has (from L > R) 3 thin lines, but one is under the 2 in pack #, so eliminate it, now you have 2 thin lines. Then, under ticket number, 016, TWO THICK lines under the 0, then ONE thin line under the 1, then one thick line under the 6, so right now we have 3 thin and 3 thick lines in bar code under ticket number - keep going until you see (60), the parenthesis is your stopping point. So, after thick line under 6, remaining is 3 consecutive thin lines and one thick line that stops just before the (60). So, 6 THIN and 4 THICK lines in bar code. This is a winning ticket - it works on ALL Scratch cards. I usually look at this first, because it is always right. Make sure, tho, that none of the lines touch-or are under the last number in packet # or the first parenthesis in (60) the remaining cards in this game.

So, now we have TWO ways to tell IF a card is a winning card. The first method is hardest, but as you see, it works. That's why most ppl comment how 'hard' it is, and it is fairly tough to figure out - but, it can be done. And, it always works.

Now, another way to check on your card. As you can tell, I've gone over everything I can find. OK - There is a bar code above (upper-left on card) and usually has "Fail Safe" written above it or NOTHING. It has a long bar code running up-down with numbers under it - this one has numbers: 17522 then 01629. The 01629 is the game #, and the OTHER number, well, check this out - This is an ID number, and all games, all cards in Scratch Off TX Lotto have this 17522 under this bar code. *interesting note - this is a winning ticket. Now, if you add up the 17522 and use the 1 as a "10" value, then 7 = 17, then 5 = 22, then first 2 = 24, THEN you use the +1 for the 2nd 2, so it is 2+1 (a duplicate gets +1), you now have 24 +3 = 27. Ah, that was the number we were looking for in the beginning! Now, MORE info (remember, this 17522 is on all cards, so this could be a coincidence). But, it figures into the front line of numbers with the boxes - look at that line and *notice the 'gap' after (in this card) the 2nd box then 6 - the line is bunched together, but then after this: 5[1]32[3]6, a gap appears the size of where a number would be. So, the card on front looks like this:

5[1]32[3]6 124[9]79[2]5 -- so, remember the 6 thin lines and 4 thick lines? Under 016? First, if you look at this number before the gap, notice [1] and [3] =4, FOUR THICK LINES? Then, the un-boxed numbers: 5+3+2+6 = 16 or 016 - a winning ticket. And, maybe the 1+3 = 4 thick lines and the last number, a 6 reps. the 6 thin lines, since it is the only number NOT matched like the 5 & 32, cancel out. And, notice that after the gap, the un-boxed numbers: 124-79-5 = 7+(79=15, since 2nd 7 is a 1 and 9 'real value' is 5), 7+15 = 22 + 5 = 27, again the number we were looking for. But, this could be an 'identifier' of how much the card pays (which I'm working on).

Now, one more helpful bit of info, the numbers 'outside' this upper bar code - the FAR left and FAR right numbers, outside the bar code, on this ticket, far left is 8 (L8 or L3 'real value') and far right is 3 (L3). Same number, but not for this purpose. The L3 is really a L8, otherwise, you will see a 3 on each side. So, L8 and R3 is used like this to find IF card is a winner.

1. Now, why do you think these numbers are there? They change on every game, card, etc. These are identifiers dealing with the Pack# at the bottom, the 7 digit number, where you use only 5 of the 7. These are to match-up which number in the packet #, I'll explain. This packet #, the five numbers are 73182. Now, using the L8 (the number far left outside that upper bar code, count over THREE from the first number of the FIVE digit pack #. First, IF you started on the first zero and counted 8 spots, you would end back on first zero, which is a "1". Now, all 8's are essentially, 3's, so you could count from first of FIVE number packet #7-8 then 1. Same result. But, here's how you do it - L8 x 1 = 8. Now, add the +1, since the real value of the 1 in 73182 is "2". So, 8x1=8 +1 = 9. Now, using R3, working from R to L, you come up with "1", same number. But, this time you multiply L3x2 (the RV of 1) since there are 2 '1's" in the packet #. So, R3x2 = 6. And, again, you add the +1 because there are two 1's in the line and each get +1, since they are duplicates. So, R3x2=6+1=7. Then, add L8 +9 + R3 +7 and 9+7 = 16. A winning ticket. This works the same on every ticket.

So, hope this helps you I.D a winning ticket, or at least it will TELL you how far from this ticket a winning ticket is. I use all three, or just two, with one as a back-up to support IF it's a winning ticket. The bar code of 6thin and 4thick lines under ticket number is amazingly accurate. IF it's not, then it's YOU making a mistake (like counting a line that is under a parenthesis or a number BEYOND the safe area.

I am still looking for more valuable info- and don't let the removal of the [boxes] on front number deter you. Your real info is on the back of card. And you MUST MUST MUST learn how to add the four last digits in pack# to your ticket number, then find every way possible to make the FIVE digits in pack # equal that number - not just the ticket number. It's a way to see IF you come in the 'back door' it's the same house. Also, find the zip codes you usually buy from/in. Notice how the numbers INSIDE the outer 2 numbers add up. If you have 75216, then 5+2+1 = 8 (don't forget to add +1 to duplicates, so 75216 is 1,2, 75,2+1, 1+1, 6 = 75326, so since 10 is double digits, then look for 5+3 - 8 and 6+3 - 9 in the games you play. This is important to figure - if you notice the Game Numbers, they are from 14-17 on first numbers because zip codes usually start with a "7" and many have 77 or two 7s in the zip, like 75137 - but, notice the middle numbers 5+1+3 = 9. You want games that have 16 (7) then something like 45 = 9, so games like 1645 or 1627 are good ones for your zip. And, pay attention to the address of retailer. Treat these addresses as having 7 digits, so 1455 High Meadow is "0001455" and have a value of "1,2,3,1+1,4,5,5+1 - so, 1+2+3 = 6 +1=7456. Back to 75216, it can add up to 0-0-7 =10, +5, +3, +2, +6 = 26. You want to exclude the "7" as most all zips have the 7, so pay attn to the inside numbers, 5-3-2 or combos of these added together. Look at games that start with 15, then zips with 76 are good ones. Sometimes, 15 can be = to 0-0-75, because 1+2+7 = 10 then the 5 = 15. So zip 75 - - - works for Scratch games with 15 or 16, and this tells you which numbers after 75, the next two or three in your zip, matter to the Game number.

Remember, they somehow figure into 1. retail address/seller, 2. zip code, 3. Packet # (on back of card, the 7 digits on bottom) and 4. ticket number. You'd be surprised to find that items 1-3 match up, even the STORE #, like a 7-11, it plays into this. Also, the more double-digits in any of these, the better. Zips like 77077 or packet #'s with 0004999 are good. Look for previous jackpot winners, add up the vitals on jackpots, notice the address, zip and packet # and then see if that game matches up good with your city, zip codes, etc. Usually, a number will be important to your area, play games with that number. Add up the game numbers, like 16-29 and look at them 1+6 = 7 and 2+5 (9's are 5's) = 7, so any game with the same 6-6 or 7-7 are good and add up the game numbers several ways: 1+6+2+5 = 14 and 16+25 = 41. This can give you some edge in which game you play using your factors for your area.

I'll be posting some more info - and some predictions shortly. This was part of a reply, but sorry it's so long. Hope you get something out of it.

Disney Land United States Member #92265 June 3, 2010 6841 Posts Offline

Posted: August 13, 2014, 8:03 pm - IP Logged

Quote: Originally posted by CashCrown on August 13, 2014

OK. I'll try to explain my method(s) for Scratch Off tickets (knowing if you have a winner or just how many until a winner in the Packet for that game). I had a question, and replied with this, so hopefully this helps, or explains, the ways you can detect just from the info on the card. There are several ways, but I use them all - depending on how quickly or how difficult the mental addition is on that card. So, here's some explanation to go with my original post "How to Determine if a Scratch Off ticket is a Winner".

When I say Pack# or packet number = the number on back of Scratch Card (SC) that has a bar code underneath it (on bottom) and the pack # is the number between the game # (far left) and the ticket number (far right). There are 7 digits, usually starting with 1-3 zeros. Your looking for the FIVE digits that make up the pack #. So, I'm looking at game #1629, on back pack # is 0073182, always 7 digits. Now, what you want to do depends on HOW you arrive at a certain number. One way is adding the last four digits of the pack # to your ticket number, so my ticket has #014. If I add the last four digits TO the ticket #, then I get 3+1+8+2 = 14 (forget the real value, where 8's are 3 and 9's are 5. So, add 14+14 = 28. Now, you want to look at the FIVE digits in the pack # and get the value, added together to = 28. How? Well, start with the five digits = 73182 and remember this - you want to see IF you can find the way to arrive at 28. On a low ticket number, you probably don't have to mess with the x10 which can be applied to any digit. So, if I add just the 5 digits -straight- I get 18 7+3+2 (1 PLUS 1) since the first zero was a 1, a duplicate gets a +1. Trust me on this. So, 7+3 +2 + 3 (8's are valued at 3 and there has been a 3 already - this is where you adjust - do you add a +1 to an 8-"3"? We'll see. For now, 7+3+2+4+3 (2 was 2nd zero, so +1 applies here) = total is 18. IF you add +1 to all the 3's after the first 3, then you get 7+3+2+4+3. Last 3, was a 2 +1, so not a 'real' three. So, it stays at 3. Now total is = 19. Now, you look to see if any number can be a x10 to get you to 28. 7 (no), 3 (no) 2 (no) 3 or 4 (no) and 3 (no). No means that x10 would put your total OVER 28. So, for instance 7 + 3 + 20 (the lowest of the set) +3 +2 = 35. So, this ticket is a loser. And, it was.

So, let me give you a winning ticket on same game #1629. Ticket #016, same pack# but now total is 16 + 14 = 30. BUT, let's use the 'real value' of the last 4 numbers, instead - this is to show you HOW to arrive vs. what appears to be exact printed numbers.

So, last four digits are 3182. Start with 3 + 2 + 3 + 3 (this is what the 'real value' is when you convert these numbers when adding up all five. So, you are adding last 4 digits total to your ticket number, THEN, you want to add all FIVE digits in pack # to arrive at same number (last 4 digits + ticket number). So, ticket # is 16. 3+2+3+3 = 11. 11+16 = 27. We want to add all FIVE digits in pack to get to 27. 7+3 = 10. 10+2=12. 12+3= 15. and 15 + 3 = 18. Now, lets look at which number could be x10 to get to 27.

So, remember this: the "1" is actually 1 PLUS 1, so you need to remember it's actually a 1, then +1, so (and this is confusing) you can figure this in when looking for 27. Ok. Follow me here. 7+3 = 10. Now, original 5 digits were 73182. So, 7+3 = 10. Now, use the original 1 FIRST. Then you can do 1 X 10 = 10. There is almost always a x10 in getting to your number (the four digits added to ticket #). So, 7+3 + (1x10=10) now have 20. Now, since 1 is a duplicate (you must count the first ZERO in the packet as a 1, the second zero is a 2), remember to add the +1 to the 1. So, 1x10=10 PLUS 1 = 11! 7+3+11 = 21. Now, 7+3+11+3 +3 = 27 !! You will find this to be the hardest part to get down pat - remember the +1 is the "real value", just as 8=3 and 9=5. Trust me on the real values of these numbers, it's because this is figured into the algorithm to make 2 digits added together still produce a single digit, like 8+4 would be 12, but 3+4 = 7.

So, this card was a winner, paid $5. Now, if you want MORE info? Keep reading. The bar code underneath all the numbers - game, packet, and ticket number - you are only looking at the TICKET NUMBER and the lines below ONLY the ticket #. They cannot touch-reach the last number in pack # or the (60) remaining number, including parenthesis. What you are looking for is SIX thin lines and FOUR thick lines under the ticket number. It's ok if one of these lines is under the "-" at end of pack #, just not under the last NUMBER! So, this card fits - it has (from L > R) 3 thin lines, but one is under the 2 in pack #, so eliminate it, now you have 2 thin lines. Then, under ticket number, 016, TWO THICK lines under the 0, then ONE thin line under the 1, then one thick line under the 6, so right now we have 3 thin and 3 thick lines in bar code under ticket number - keep going until you see (60), the parenthesis is your stopping point. So, after thick line under 6, remaining is 3 consecutive thin lines and one thick line that stops just before the (60). So, 6 THIN and 4 THICK lines in bar code. This is a winning ticket - it works on ALL Scratch cards. I usually look at this first, because it is always right. Make sure, tho, that none of the lines touch-or are under the last number in packet # or the first parenthesis in (60) the remaining cards in this game.

So, now we have TWO ways to tell IF a card is a winning card. The first method is hardest, but as you see, it works. That's why most ppl comment how 'hard' it is, and it is fairly tough to figure out - but, it can be done. And, it always works.

Now, another way to check on your card. As you can tell, I've gone over everything I can find. OK - There is a bar code above (upper-left on card) and usually has "Fail Safe" written above it or NOTHING. It has a long bar code running up-down with numbers under it - this one has numbers: 17522 then 01629. The 01629 is the game #, and the OTHER number, well, check this out - This is an ID number, and all games, all cards in Scratch Off TX Lotto have this 17522 under this bar code. *interesting note - this is a winning ticket. Now, if you add up the 17522 and use the 1 as a "10" value, then 7 = 17, then 5 = 22, then first 2 = 24, THEN you use the +1 for the 2nd 2, so it is 2+1 (a duplicate gets +1), you now have 24 +3 = 27. Ah, that was the number we were looking for in the beginning! Now, MORE info (remember, this 17522 is on all cards, so this could be a coincidence). But, it figures into the front line of numbers with the boxes - look at that line and *notice the 'gap' after (in this card) the 2nd box then 6 - the line is bunched together, but then after this: 5[1]32[3]6, a gap appears the size of where a number would be. So, the card on front looks like this:

5[1]32[3]6 124[9]79[2]5 -- so, remember the 6 thin lines and 4 thick lines? Under 016? First, if you look at this number before the gap, notice [1] and [3] =4, FOUR THICK LINES? Then, the un-boxed numbers: 5+3+2+6 = 16 or 016 - a winning ticket. And, maybe the 1+3 = 4 thick lines and the last number, a 6 reps. the 6 thin lines, since it is the only number NOT matched like the 5 & 32, cancel out. And, notice that after the gap, the un-boxed numbers: 124-79-5 = 7+(79=15, since 2nd 7 is a 1 and 9 'real value' is 5), 7+15 = 22 + 5 = 27, again the number we were looking for. But, this could be an 'identifier' of how much the card pays (which I'm working on).

Now, one more helpful bit of info, the numbers 'outside' this upper bar code - the FAR left and FAR right numbers, outside the bar code, on this ticket, far left is 8 (L8 or L3 'real value') and far right is 3 (L3). Same number, but not for this purpose. The L3 is really a L8, otherwise, you will see a 3 on each side. So, L8 and R3 is used like this to find IF card is a winner.

1. Now, why do you think these numbers are there? They change on every game, card, etc. These are identifiers dealing with the Pack# at the bottom, the 7 digit number, where you use only 5 of the 7. These are to match-up which number in the packet #, I'll explain. This packet #, the five numbers are 73182. Now, using the L8 (the number far left outside that upper bar code, count over THREE from the first number of the FIVE digit pack #. First, IF you started on the first zero and counted 8 spots, you would end back on first zero, which is a "1". Now, all 8's are essentially, 3's, so you could count from first of FIVE number packet #7-8 then 1. Same result. But, here's how you do it - L8 x 1 = 8. Now, add the +1, since the real value of the 1 in 73182 is "2". So, 8x1=8 +1 = 9. Now, using R3, working from R to L, you come up with "1", same number. But, this time you multiply L3x2 (the RV of 1) since there are 2 '1's" in the packet #. So, R3x2 = 6. And, again, you add the +1 because there are two 1's in the line and each get +1, since they are duplicates. So, R3x2=6+1=7. Then, add L8 +9 + R3 +7 and 9+7 = 16. A winning ticket. This works the same on every ticket.

So, hope this helps you I.D a winning ticket, or at least it will TELL you how far from this ticket a winning ticket is. I use all three, or just two, with one as a back-up to support IF it's a winning ticket. The bar code of 6thin and 4thick lines under ticket number is amazingly accurate. IF it's not, then it's YOU making a mistake (like counting a line that is under a parenthesis or a number BEYOND the safe area.

I am still looking for more valuable info- and don't let the removal of the [boxes] on front number deter you. Your real info is on the back of card. And you MUST MUST MUST learn how to add the four last digits in pack# to your ticket number, then find every way possible to make the FIVE digits in pack # equal that number - not just the ticket number. It's a way to see IF you come in the 'back door' it's the same house. Also, find the zip codes you usually buy from/in. Notice how the numbers INSIDE the outer 2 numbers add up. If you have 75216, then 5+2+1 = 8 (don't forget to add +1 to duplicates, so 75216 is 1,2, 75,2+1, 1+1, 6 = 75326, so since 10 is double digits, then look for 5+3 - 8 and 6+3 - 9 in the games you play. This is important to figure - if you notice the Game Numbers, they are from 14-17 on first numbers because zip codes usually start with a "7" and many have 77 or two 7s in the zip, like 75137 - but, notice the middle numbers 5+1+3 = 9. You want games that have 16 (7) then something like 45 = 9, so games like 1645 or 1627 are good ones for your zip. And, pay attention to the address of retailer. Treat these addresses as having 7 digits, so 1455 High Meadow is "0001455" and have a value of "1,2,3,1+1,4,5,5+1 - so, 1+2+3 = 6 +1=7456. Back to 75216, it can add up to 0-0-7 =10, +5, +3, +2, +6 = 26. You want to exclude the "7" as most all zips have the 7, so pay attn to the inside numbers, 5-3-2 or combos of these added together. Look at games that start with 15, then zips with 76 are good ones. Sometimes, 15 can be = to 0-0-75, because 1+2+7 = 10 then the 5 = 15. So zip 75 - - - works for Scratch games with 15 or 16, and this tells you which numbers after 75, the next two or three in your zip, matter to the Game number.

Remember, they somehow figure into 1. retail address/seller, 2. zip code, 3. Packet # (on back of card, the 7 digits on bottom) and 4. ticket number. You'd be surprised to find that items 1-3 match up, even the STORE #, like a 7-11, it plays into this. Also, the more double-digits in any of these, the better. Zips like 77077 or packet #'s with 0004999 are good. Look for previous jackpot winners, add up the vitals on jackpots, notice the address, zip and packet # and then see if that game matches up good with your city, zip codes, etc. Usually, a number will be important to your area, play games with that number. Add up the game numbers, like 16-29 and look at them 1+6 = 7 and 2+5 (9's are 5's) = 7, so any game with the same 6-6 or 7-7 are good and add up the game numbers several ways: 1+6+2+5 = 14 and 16+25 = 41. This can give you some edge in which game you play using your factors for your area.

I'll be posting some more info - and some predictions shortly. This was part of a reply, but sorry it's so long. Hope you get something out of it.

Cash Crown II

CashCrown II

Thank you for posting! It’s a brain overload for me right now. But I hope I can digest this & continue with what you have to share.

Wear cute pajamas to bed...because you never know who you will meet in your dreams.

United States Member #60481 April 20, 2008 7053 Posts Offline

Posted: August 14, 2014, 12:00 am - IP Logged

Quote: Originally posted by CashCrown on August 13, 2014

OK. I'll try to explain my method(s) for Scratch Off tickets (knowing if you have a winner or just how many until a winner in the Packet for that game). I had a question, and replied with this, so hopefully this helps, or explains, the ways you can detect just from the info on the card. There are several ways, but I use them all - depending on how quickly or how difficult the mental addition is on that card. So, here's some explanation to go with my original post "How to Determine if a Scratch Off ticket is a Winner".

When I say Pack# or packet number = the number on back of Scratch Card (SC) that has a bar code underneath it (on bottom) and the pack # is the number between the game # (far left) and the ticket number (far right). There are 7 digits, usually starting with 1-3 zeros. Your looking for the FIVE digits that make up the pack #. So, I'm looking at game #1629, on back pack # is 0073182, always 7 digits. Now, what you want to do depends on HOW you arrive at a certain number. One way is adding the last four digits of the pack # to your ticket number, so my ticket has #014. If I add the last four digits TO the ticket #, then I get 3+1+8+2 = 14 (forget the real value, where 8's are 3 and 9's are 5. So, add 14+14 = 28. Now, you want to look at the FIVE digits in the pack # and get the value, added together to = 28. How? Well, start with the five digits = 73182 and remember this - you want to see IF you can find the way to arrive at 28. On a low ticket number, you probably don't have to mess with the x10 which can be applied to any digit. So, if I add just the 5 digits -straight- I get 18 7+3+2 (1 PLUS 1) since the first zero was a 1, a duplicate gets a +1. Trust me on this. So, 7+3 +2 + 3 (8's are valued at 3 and there has been a 3 already - this is where you adjust - do you add a +1 to an 8-"3"? We'll see. For now, 7+3+2+4+3 (2 was 2nd zero, so +1 applies here) = total is 18. IF you add +1 to all the 3's after the first 3, then you get 7+3+2+4+3. Last 3, was a 2 +1, so not a 'real' three. So, it stays at 3. Now total is = 19. Now, you look to see if any number can be a x10 to get you to 28. 7 (no), 3 (no) 2 (no) 3 or 4 (no) and 3 (no). No means that x10 would put your total OVER 28. So, for instance 7 + 3 + 20 (the lowest of the set) +3 +2 = 35. So, this ticket is a loser. And, it was.

So, let me give you a winning ticket on same game #1629. Ticket #016, same pack# but now total is 16 + 14 = 30. BUT, let's use the 'real value' of the last 4 numbers, instead - this is to show you HOW to arrive vs. what appears to be exact printed numbers.

So, last four digits are 3182. Start with 3 + 2 + 3 + 3 (this is what the 'real value' is when you convert these numbers when adding up all five. So, you are adding last 4 digits total to your ticket number, THEN, you want to add all FIVE digits in pack # to arrive at same number (last 4 digits + ticket number). So, ticket # is 16. 3+2+3+3 = 11. 11+16 = 27. We want to add all FIVE digits in pack to get to 27. 7+3 = 10. 10+2=12. 12+3= 15. and 15 + 3 = 18. Now, lets look at which number could be x10 to get to 27.

So, remember this: the "1" is actually 1 PLUS 1, so you need to remember it's actually a 1, then +1, so (and this is confusing) you can figure this in when looking for 27. Ok. Follow me here. 7+3 = 10. Now, original 5 digits were 73182. So, 7+3 = 10. Now, use the original 1 FIRST. Then you can do 1 X 10 = 10. There is almost always a x10 in getting to your number (the four digits added to ticket #). So, 7+3 + (1x10=10) now have 20. Now, since 1 is a duplicate (you must count the first ZERO in the packet as a 1, the second zero is a 2), remember to add the +1 to the 1. So, 1x10=10 PLUS 1 = 11! 7+3+11 = 21. Now, 7+3+11+3 +3 = 27 !! You will find this to be the hardest part to get down pat - remember the +1 is the "real value", just as 8=3 and 9=5. Trust me on the real values of these numbers, it's because this is figured into the algorithm to make 2 digits added together still produce a single digit, like 8+4 would be 12, but 3+4 = 7.

So, this card was a winner, paid $5. Now, if you want MORE info? Keep reading. The bar code underneath all the numbers - game, packet, and ticket number - you are only looking at the TICKET NUMBER and the lines below ONLY the ticket #. They cannot touch-reach the last number in pack # or the (60) remaining number, including parenthesis. What you are looking for is SIX thin lines and FOUR thick lines under the ticket number. It's ok if one of these lines is under the "-" at end of pack #, just not under the last NUMBER! So, this card fits - it has (from L > R) 3 thin lines, but one is under the 2 in pack #, so eliminate it, now you have 2 thin lines. Then, under ticket number, 016, TWO THICK lines under the 0, then ONE thin line under the 1, then one thick line under the 6, so right now we have 3 thin and 3 thick lines in bar code under ticket number - keep going until you see (60), the parenthesis is your stopping point. So, after thick line under 6, remaining is 3 consecutive thin lines and one thick line that stops just before the (60). So, 6 THIN and 4 THICK lines in bar code. This is a winning ticket - it works on ALL Scratch cards. I usually look at this first, because it is always right. Make sure, tho, that none of the lines touch-or are under the last number in packet # or the first parenthesis in (60) the remaining cards in this game.

So, now we have TWO ways to tell IF a card is a winning card. The first method is hardest, but as you see, it works. That's why most ppl comment how 'hard' it is, and it is fairly tough to figure out - but, it can be done. And, it always works.

Now, another way to check on your card. As you can tell, I've gone over everything I can find. OK - There is a bar code above (upper-left on card) and usually has "Fail Safe" written above it or NOTHING. It has a long bar code running up-down with numbers under it - this one has numbers: 17522 then 01629. The 01629 is the game #, and the OTHER number, well, check this out - This is an ID number, and all games, all cards in Scratch Off TX Lotto have this 17522 under this bar code. *interesting note - this is a winning ticket. Now, if you add up the 17522 and use the 1 as a "10" value, then 7 = 17, then 5 = 22, then first 2 = 24, THEN you use the +1 for the 2nd 2, so it is 2+1 (a duplicate gets +1), you now have 24 +3 = 27. Ah, that was the number we were looking for in the beginning! Now, MORE info (remember, this 17522 is on all cards, so this could be a coincidence). But, it figures into the front line of numbers with the boxes - look at that line and *notice the 'gap' after (in this card) the 2nd box then 6 - the line is bunched together, but then after this: 5[1]32[3]6, a gap appears the size of where a number would be. So, the card on front looks like this:

5[1]32[3]6 124[9]79[2]5 -- so, remember the 6 thin lines and 4 thick lines? Under 016? First, if you look at this number before the gap, notice [1] and [3] =4, FOUR THICK LINES? Then, the un-boxed numbers: 5+3+2+6 = 16 or 016 - a winning ticket. And, maybe the 1+3 = 4 thick lines and the last number, a 6 reps. the 6 thin lines, since it is the only number NOT matched like the 5 & 32, cancel out. And, notice that after the gap, the un-boxed numbers: 124-79-5 = 7+(79=15, since 2nd 7 is a 1 and 9 'real value' is 5), 7+15 = 22 + 5 = 27, again the number we were looking for. But, this could be an 'identifier' of how much the card pays (which I'm working on).

Now, one more helpful bit of info, the numbers 'outside' this upper bar code - the FAR left and FAR right numbers, outside the bar code, on this ticket, far left is 8 (L8 or L3 'real value') and far right is 3 (L3). Same number, but not for this purpose. The L3 is really a L8, otherwise, you will see a 3 on each side. So, L8 and R3 is used like this to find IF card is a winner.

1. Now, why do you think these numbers are there? They change on every game, card, etc. These are identifiers dealing with the Pack# at the bottom, the 7 digit number, where you use only 5 of the 7. These are to match-up which number in the packet #, I'll explain. This packet #, the five numbers are 73182. Now, using the L8 (the number far left outside that upper bar code, count over THREE from the first number of the FIVE digit pack #. First, IF you started on the first zero and counted 8 spots, you would end back on first zero, which is a "1". Now, all 8's are essentially, 3's, so you could count from first of FIVE number packet #7-8 then 1. Same result. But, here's how you do it - L8 x 1 = 8. Now, add the +1, since the real value of the 1 in 73182 is "2". So, 8x1=8 +1 = 9. Now, using R3, working from R to L, you come up with "1", same number. But, this time you multiply L3x2 (the RV of 1) since there are 2 '1's" in the packet #. So, R3x2 = 6. And, again, you add the +1 because there are two 1's in the line and each get +1, since they are duplicates. So, R3x2=6+1=7. Then, add L8 +9 + R3 +7 and 9+7 = 16. A winning ticket. This works the same on every ticket.

So, hope this helps you I.D a winning ticket, or at least it will TELL you how far from this ticket a winning ticket is. I use all three, or just two, with one as a back-up to support IF it's a winning ticket. The bar code of 6thin and 4thick lines under ticket number is amazingly accurate. IF it's not, then it's YOU making a mistake (like counting a line that is under a parenthesis or a number BEYOND the safe area.

I am still looking for more valuable info- and don't let the removal of the [boxes] on front number deter you. Your real info is on the back of card. And you MUST MUST MUST learn how to add the four last digits in pack# to your ticket number, then find every way possible to make the FIVE digits in pack # equal that number - not just the ticket number. It's a way to see IF you come in the 'back door' it's the same house. Also, find the zip codes you usually buy from/in. Notice how the numbers INSIDE the outer 2 numbers add up. If you have 75216, then 5+2+1 = 8 (don't forget to add +1 to duplicates, so 75216 is 1,2, 75,2+1, 1+1, 6 = 75326, so since 10 is double digits, then look for 5+3 - 8 and 6+3 - 9 in the games you play. This is important to figure - if you notice the Game Numbers, they are from 14-17 on first numbers because zip codes usually start with a "7" and many have 77 or two 7s in the zip, like 75137 - but, notice the middle numbers 5+1+3 = 9. You want games that have 16 (7) then something like 45 = 9, so games like 1645 or 1627 are good ones for your zip. And, pay attention to the address of retailer. Treat these addresses as having 7 digits, so 1455 High Meadow is "0001455" and have a value of "1,2,3,1+1,4,5,5+1 - so, 1+2+3 = 6 +1=7456. Back to 75216, it can add up to 0-0-7 =10, +5, +3, +2, +6 = 26. You want to exclude the "7" as most all zips have the 7, so pay attn to the inside numbers, 5-3-2 or combos of these added together. Look at games that start with 15, then zips with 76 are good ones. Sometimes, 15 can be = to 0-0-75, because 1+2+7 = 10 then the 5 = 15. So zip 75 - - - works for Scratch games with 15 or 16, and this tells you which numbers after 75, the next two or three in your zip, matter to the Game number.

Remember, they somehow figure into 1. retail address/seller, 2. zip code, 3. Packet # (on back of card, the 7 digits on bottom) and 4. ticket number. You'd be surprised to find that items 1-3 match up, even the STORE #, like a 7-11, it plays into this. Also, the more double-digits in any of these, the better. Zips like 77077 or packet #'s with 0004999 are good. Look for previous jackpot winners, add up the vitals on jackpots, notice the address, zip and packet # and then see if that game matches up good with your city, zip codes, etc. Usually, a number will be important to your area, play games with that number. Add up the game numbers, like 16-29 and look at them 1+6 = 7 and 2+5 (9's are 5's) = 7, so any game with the same 6-6 or 7-7 are good and add up the game numbers several ways: 1+6+2+5 = 14 and 16+25 = 41. This can give you some edge in which game you play using your factors for your area.

I'll be posting some more info - and some predictions shortly. This was part of a reply, but sorry it's so long. Hope you get something out of it.

Cash Crown II

Ok Cash Crown, I'm getting your ideas about scratch offs a little better this time round but one question remains: how would you see the number on the back before you bought it since most stores have them all packed up making it very difficult to see the back?