JAP69's Blog

Checked pail this morning and found water in it. When I installed the drain I went from an 1 1/4 inch tail piece to a 1 1/2 inch trap using two piece compression ring.

That might be where the leak is as I seen water on the seal at that point previously.

Two piece compression ring may not be doing the job sealing it properly.

Just went online and ordered a one piece rubberized compression ring 1 1/4 x 1 1/2 . for sink drains,

Install that when it comes and see if the leak stops.

Moving all tools and supplies in spare room out to the garage.

The previous couple days I have been checking the catch pail under drain pipe. Have been filling basin full  and draining it out a couple times a day. The catch pail has been dry when checking it. Looks like the leak has stopped.

Quite possibly filling basin with hot and cold water created expansion and contraction on all the seals which caused them to move into position sealing the leak. Will leave pail in there for about a month more.

All other final punch out I mentioned in previous post completed. 

Bath remodel done

I am happier as a fox in the chicken coop.

I will order the spray sealant for the vanity bottom later on. 

Still have not fixed the drain leak or installed the final piece of baseboard and the touch up wall painting.

Lacking motivation to get r done,

Maybe today. 

Creative thinkers back in the old days.

https://thereader.mitpress.mit.edu/the-teenagers-who-imagined-gps-before-the-civil-war/

Checked my catch pail under the vanity about an hour ago and there was about one tablespoon of water in it. First sign of leakage after four days checking the catch pail daily. 

I think it might be the donut seal is not seated properly.

Work on finding leak when I feel up to the task. 

I have a piece of baseboard and shoe mold 12 3/8 inches long to be installed between cabinet and door trim. Baseboard being delivered tomorrow. Caulk that up with painters caulk, Some touch up painting on the wall here and there. 

Had quite a time setting cabinet in place as the wall behind the cabinet was out of level 1/2 inch with the gap at the top. Had to mark where cabinet contacted the wall on left side. The right side fits into a corner. Had to get out my oscillating saw and cut out drywall  leaving 2 inches down from top for the top of cabinet to have contact with the wall. Set cabinet in place recessing the bottom into the wall and contact drywall at top. New cabinet sets level now. had to make a cover panel for the back of the cabinet as it had an open back in the middle leaving everything exposed back there. Could not have that.

Set the new vanity top and connected up the plumbing fixture and drain pipes. Was using the old drain pipes and connections which did not work out having leaks. Ended up with new drain pipes, trap and all new compression seals. No leak so far after I got done with it. 

Think I will silicone caulk the inside corner of the vertical panel and the cabinet floor panel sealing that point of connection. Then I will take White Waterproof Patch and Seal Spray  and  spray the bottom panel and up each side panel an inch or so, 

It will end up costing less than a pan I priced at $22.00. Seal spray will cost about $13,00 and will give full coverage of the floor panel, 

"Gorilla Waterproof Patch and Seal Spray is a flexible, rubberized coating that seals out water, air and moisture. The applicator nozzle has a controlled spray pattern providing a clean, even coat. Once applied, the self-leveling formula smoothly covers small gaps and cracks ensuring a watertight seal. When dried,"

With the cabinet made of MDF panels they quickly absorbs moisture. The cabinet is elevated off the floor about 3/16 of an inch giving ventilation under there.

Triple coming in the air.

https://www.thekitchn.com/recipe-dill-pickle-chicken-245428#post-recipe-9495

I have all that is necessary to install the new vanity cabinet and new vanity top with bowl. Have not installed it yet.

I have been modifying my handicap ramp I made last year the past week with a little more to do.
I elevated  the porch surface in front of the door 2 1/4 inches to be more even with the slope of the door sill. Measures  3 ft 8 inches,  6 foot 6 inches long. Coated with sand paint.

That means I had to raise the ramp I made last year 2 1/4 inches to match the new porch height. With having to extend the bottom of the ramp another 2 feet to contact the walk way.

Sure makes it a lot easier to get from the porch surface to the bottom of the sill slope. Had to wrestle with the upright walker to get in and out. Ended up putting me in a  off mood every time.

A little bit each day gets-r-done.

One toilet was 17 inches tall which was taller than what my son had in his house. So that one ended up there.

The other toilet was a 15 inch tall toilet which I had just replaced [ https://blogs.lotterypost.com/jap69/2026/1/fixed_toilet_tank.htm ] all  the tank parts on . Just today I set it on the porch and scheduled a pick up by Habitat For Humanity this week.

Happy so far with it.

What a relief with a new and level floor with no toilet seal leaks. Had trouble with the old toilet with leaks for years with an unlevel floor under toilet. Replaced seal, shimmed it many times and still eventually leaked. The old toilet in the other bath had no seal leak problem at all. 

When the new toilet power flushes it makes that sucking sound that the old style high water volume toilets made. When the bowl refills after the flush there appears to be more water in the bowl than my other low GPF toilet. The water shoots down like it means business when the lever is tripped.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-Power-Flush-2-Piece-1-28-GPF-Single-Flush-Extra-Tall-Elongated-Toilet-in-White-with-Slow-Close-Seat-Included-N2450E-19/330066873#overlay

With the help of my daughter today we installed the hall 1/2 bath toilet. No leaks.  Now I need to purchase the vanity with top sometime within the next month. 

Glad it is about done. With my handicap it has been a long dragged out project.